My city, where I have lived for many years, is known for having many eel restaurants. Around the city's tourist spots, there are several establishments that have been in business for about 100 years, and it is common to see customers queuing outside the shops on weekends.

In the past, eel was a seasonal tradition for Japanese people, as well as a special occasion feast. Many people probably feel that "it's almost eel season" when summer arrives, and many would also have memories of enjoying unaju (eel rice bowl) with their families around the dining table.

This familiar sentiment is not merely a matter of taste; it is supported by a cultural background nurtured over a long history.

The relationship between Japanese people and eels dates back to ancient times. The excavation of eel bones from Jomon period ruins indicates that people at that time already utilized eels as an important source of protein. The Manyoshu, an anthology from the Nara period, also contains descriptions of "Munagi," suggesting it was eaten to ward off summer heat. During the Heian period, records of nobles consuming eel remain in their diaries, recognizing it as a fortifying food.

This accumulated culinary experience from ancient times led to a significant development in eel culture during the Edo period. Many kabayaki (grilled eel) restaurants opened in the town of Edo, and kabayaki, coated in a sweet and savory sauce, gained popularity as a luxury for common people. It was also around this time that the custom of eating eel on "Doyo-no-Ushi no Hi" (Day of the Ox in summer) became widespread, with the well-known anecdote that Hiraga Gennai devised it at the request of a merchant. After the Meiji era, the development of aquaculture technology stabilized the supply, and eel became widely popular nationwide.

It is said that the reasons Japanese people favor eels include unique Japanese cooking techniques and culinary culture. In the Kanto region, fatty eels are made lighter by steaming them before grilling, while in the Kansai region, they are grilled without steaming to enhance their aroma, with regional variations and ingenuity. The compatibility with the sweet and savory sauce culture is also excellent, giving eel strong social significance as a "summer energy source" and a "special occasion dish." This cultural background is said to have elevated eel to a symbol beyond just a food ingredient.

Meanwhile, in other Asian countries and Western nations, eel has not become as culturally ingrained as in Japan. While there are regions in China where eel is eaten, domestic consumption is limited, and exports to Japan are primarily the focus. Despite Taiwan being one of the world's leading aquaculture nations, domestic consumption is not high, and again, the Japanese market is the largest export destination. In South Korea, although grilled eel with gochujang exists, it is hardly considered a national dish.

What about Europe? "Jellied eels," a traditional British dish, are known but rarely eaten today. In Spain and Italy, there is a tradition of eating juvenile eels (glass eels) at Christmas, but the quantity is small, and due to resource depletion, they have become a luxury ingredient. In America, eel is not a common foodstuff, usually only offered as eel rolls in sushi restaurants. From these international comparisons, Japan's eel culture is globally distinctive.

40-60% of Eels Go to Japanese Stomachs, a Spreading Food Culture

According to the latest survey, East Asia accounts for 64-85% of global eel consumption, with Japan, the world's largest eel-consuming nation, overwhelmingly consuming about 40-60%.

However, the resources supporting this food culture are in a critical state. The Japanese eel was designated an endangered species in 2014, and the catch of glass eels has drastically decreased from around 200 tons annually in the 1960s to only 5-10 tons in recent years. Overfishing, deterioration of river environments, and ocean current fluctuations are contributing factors.

Overfishing and smuggling are problems in various Asian countries, and international resource management is deemed indispensable. In Japan, efforts are underway to improve river environments, develop habitats for spawning migration, and strengthen traceability to prevent poaching. Furthermore, while full-cycle aquaculture technology has already succeeded, practical application requires time due to challenges in cost and production volume, necessitating approaches from both scientific technology and environmental policy to secure eel culture for the future.

Meanwhile, what about the evolution of eel culinary culture? In addition to traditional kabayaki, there is an increasing fusion with Western cuisine, such as confit cooked in low-temperature oil, smoked eel, carpaccio, and applications in pasta. New culinary cultures are also spreading in Japanese cuisine, such as eating shirayaki (plain grilled eel) with wasabi and salt, eel shabu-shabu, and dashi chazuke. At supermarkets, pressed sushi, liver skewers (kimoyaki), and bone crackers (hone-senbei) are available as side dishes, showing how eel has permeated daily life in various forms.

The relationship between Japanese people and eels is a cultural phenomenon intricately intertwined with a history dating back to ancient times, a unique culinary culture, and seasonal events, making it globally distinctive. Japanese people are undeniably the world's greatest eel lovers. Despite facing the challenge of resource crisis, through technological innovation and the evolution of food culture, eel will undoubtedly continue to be an intimate part of Japanese life and hearts.

■筆者プロフィール：姫路はじめ

1972年時事通信社入社。社会部などを経て編集委員。教育、税、軍事について詳しい。ねずみ年生まれの故か、新しもの好きで万年筆など筆記具収集のほか、PCの購入台数もDOS/V時代からWindows、Macを併せて20台近くにも上る。趣味はカメラ撮影と1日に3時間ぐらいのPCいじり。